Stone Island’s brand ethos has been set in stone because the 1980s, but the label’s dedication to analysis means that their collection is always fresh and exciting. With a devoted international following and a again catalogue of forty,000 distinctive garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
“Stone Island has at all times remained true to itself, without concessions. And so now we have been able to rejuvenate our goal market of customers; we reach out both to our historic customers, those who have faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but additionally to the younger crowd, to the brand new generations of right now. /p>
Whereas different manufacturers have branched out to include totally different styles or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained targeted, with simply the label’s continuing analysis into fabrics and dyes pushing the brand forward.
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-sensitive Fabric
Should you look again on the last thirty years, the model began with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-sensitive fabrics and Kevlar designs. It could be arduous to predict what comes subsequent and that’s what makes the brand so thrilling to follow.
The energy of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable fashion of their clothes, has created a cult following – including celebrities resembling Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The model has also been related to football fans – and infrequently football hooliganism – however the label has been quick to dissociate itself from the latter.
As CEO Carlo Rivetti gives followers a video tour round Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen Jackets are ‘cooked in ninety – 140 levels and ‘recipes are adopted to create every shade of colour.
However, to most individuals, Stone Island’s dyeing facility appears extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of nearly each color conceivable, and with impressive equipment and weighty recordsdata of formulas, the ‘Colour Lab is evidently a place for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest factor to a renaissance painter’s workshop in the 21st century.
Texture and color are the starting point for every jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. Some of their dyeing methods may cause up to 50% shrinkage, so getting the design right is a sophisticated process.
Every garment is made from a variety of different fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a distinct means – either in how they absorb color or shrink during the process. Each jacket is like a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you possibly can walk by means of the historical past of their experimentation.
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s identify came from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst 1000’s of phrases, ‘stone and ‘island were the most commonly occurring, and so the model was born.
The primary collection was the result of research right into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-treated to be purple on one aspect and blue on the other.
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the model. By 1984, the gathering had evolved to incorporate jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was additionally in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was introduced, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of army origin, with polyurethane coating.
By way of research into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Mild, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The impact was a thick and glazed look.
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the development of a heat-delicate fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which changed colour with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from inexperienced to white, the Ice Jacket was a actually futuristic concept. Stone Island developed the design further to create patterned jackets which misplaced their sample within the chilly, turning into icy white with freezing temperatures.
Subsequent, Stone Island developed a extremely reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow by way of a coating of 1000’s of micro glass spheres. Impressed by work security jackets, this collection was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even able to reflect gentle from very weak sources.
This was a time of great change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the staff and pushed the research ahead.
With an injection of latest ideas, the subsequent few years saw an enormous number of revolutionary fabrics getting into the color Lab. The first was Formula Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.
1997 – 1998
The research continued at a relentless tempo, and in 1997, Stone Island designers utilized a Reverse Colour Process approach on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then light using a corrosion technique to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, also became a part of the collection throughout these years.
On the turn of the millennium, the Stone Island design crew were incredibly busy. Launching an enormous quantity of recent fabrics and designs in simply two years, including the Pure Metal Shell Silver and Pure Metal Shell Bronze (as shown above). These parkas were created with both one hundred% stainless steel or one hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers subsequent moved onto a material which is five times stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island discovered a option to dye this seemingly not possible material by way of including a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed to be used on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island started to use silver spray on their assortment of fine polyester jackets, including a vacuum seal of a hundred% stainless seal.
The brand also launched their Ventile vary, using a army textile which was a hundred% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls within the Second World Battle.
In 2002, the range continued to develop, with jackets engineered to look flat with a collection of folds and seams adding detail.
One other success story from this year was the sunshine Jacket. Continued research perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that mild up with blue gentle.
The design crew also experimented with numerous layers of meshes, which revealed the interior development of the jacket.
Stone Island perfected their Compact Process to create extraordinarily dense supplies, that are boiled at 130 levels after which shrink by up to 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was additionally launched, developed by laminating ultra-light cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane film.
The David TC Fabric was launched, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed underneath stress at 130 degrees.
Developing their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his shoes as Inventive Director. And in the identical yr, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Assortment.
Creating on their previous heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its sample within the chilly.
The team also developed a brand new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-delicate quartz and graphite.
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a light-weight cotton muslin, which was treated with colored resins before the material was laminated to produce a prism-effect polyurethane movie. The material can then be double-dyed to create a wide range of vibrant colours.
Subsequent, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Remedy, a course of which creates a garment that’s highly water-repellent and environmentally pleasant.
2012 marked the 30th anniversary of the brand and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a major exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments have been created to replicate the history of Stone Island, together with a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years of analysis and 40,000 garments later, their present A/W assortment displays this wealthy historical past Stone Island Online of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the brand has to offer this yr.
What’s subsequent for the Model?
With a constant drive towards creating new colours and supplies, Stone Island is a brand always capable of shock. When asked what the future holds, Carlo Rivetti mentioned:
“We get inspired by individuals, architecture and design. At present we’re at present studying some materials used in the automotive industry. Throughout the Olympics, the outfits the athletes put on are very technical, which can also be inspirational.