During Milan’s famed Design Week, we stopped by Stone Island’s “Reflective Research exhibition to talk with the brand’s proprietor on every part from working with New York streetwear royalty to instructing on the local Polytechnic College.
As one of many clothes industry’s leading innovators, Stone Island’s man at the helm, Carlo Rivetti, knows a thing or two about fabrics. Approaching the world of vogue with the mindset of an industrial designer, Stone Island has rightfully earned its position as streetwear’s technical leader over the course of 30-some-odd years. Stone Island even collaborated with Supreme not as soon as, however twice over the previous 12 months, cementing their place in the current style landscape.
Though we lately dove into their large archive and captured Mr. Rivetti in a latest Avenue Style, we’ve solely simply scratched the floor of the heralded Italian label. To seek out out extra, we sat down with Mr. Rivetti at Stone Island’s “Reflective Research exhibition. Check it out under.
Howdy, my identify is Carlo Rivetti and I’m the Artistic Director and President (exactly in that order) at Stone Island. (laughs)
I work with the design crew. We work altogether each in Milano and in Ravarino the place we’ve got the manufacturing unit. As a result of I’m the oldest with expertise, I attempt to provide route to the younger guys in the design staff. The design crew is made up of 4 totally different individuals; so four different ages and 4 totally different nationalities. So I’m very interested to know the opinions and point of views of all of those people. It is my job to try and put these concepts into a Stone Island setting.
Stone Island is something unique. If you want single items then each single piece in the gathering has a that means. We aren’t following the market – we try to do what we really feel is fascinating. It’s a kind of club between individuals who understand the product, which is not usually understandable. You have to be curious and perceive that an orange jacket is just not always an orange jacket.
Occasions have changed so much. People are extra superficial and don’t have a lot time to speculate. All the things becomes so fast, compared with the past. Now we have to alter the best way of speaking to individuals – it’s important to grow to be shortly comprehensible. You must hit and shock people so they are enthusiastic about understanding the process and every part.
Yes, for sure. Additionally as a result of we discuss rather a lot on social media, we strive to indicate how we do the garment. We have been very effective in this as a result of we added a new age target. We are now speaking to youthful folks and this to me might be the most important thing.
Do you reach out to youthful folks in a special manner? The new customers, for instance? The people that don’t essentially know the historical past of Stone Island?
Not necessarily in a special way. I think younger individuals are very desirous about stories. Regarding the young people in the Italian market during the last 10 years, they had been very saved by marketed products and now they are far more desirous about real products.
Masculinity is a man who walks in the street and does not have a selected worth. You see lots of different folks carrying Stone Island – I see stunning women wearing Stone Island and I think that essentially the most lovely women are the ones wearing men’s merchandise. I don’t really have a target of masculinity. I simply really feel proud when i see someone wearing my stuff. We don’t goal our customer.
It seems you method the design of your product more in the best way of industrial design quite than trend design?
Totally correct. In reality, throughout Fashion Week we didn’t do a show or catwalk. We didn’t do anything. We simply opened an area and we were there explaining the product. I feel rather more assured with industrial design than the style system.
This is a call that was taken by my wife – she is also a part of the design team. She needed to do this exhibition. In a word, it is a product of the mind of the design group. I by no means enter into any such determination because I’m concerned with doing product so with such a communication I depart it to my wife, Sabina.
When you’re doing analysis on new fabrics and new methods, are there another industries that you’re taking inspiration from?
Plenty of design groups from other sectors come into ours showrooms and obviously I’m very concerned about understanding it more. We say this is know-how but this is just know-how in textile. You have got technology in other industries: automobiles, shoes. For instance, I noticed these sunglasses after which had to find out how they work. So we will see these applied sciences in numerous sectors and take from them and they’ll take from us. It’s a form of exchange of experience. If you want to be innovative you’ve got to remain awake and alert to the world.
I see stunning ladies carrying Stone Island and I think that the most lovely ladies are the ones carrying men’s products
Sure. Beautiful design, amazing advertising. So it’s the sort of factor. How can I work with these people and the sorts of technologies they are utilizing? Can I use any such expertise in a garment? I think the factor with innovation is one thing it’s good to work on so I always inform my workforce, “don’t look again, always look in entrance. As a result of the long run is in the future, not the past. /p>
In a previous interview you talked about that a big revolution for you guys happened in 2003 whenever you found the right way to dye polyester at 130 degrees Celsius. Why was that such an vital innovation?
Because before we could only dye the pure fiber – there is a big quantity of fabric in fiber however once we also started to dye manmade fiber, we opened a totally new area of analysis – polyester, nylon, non-woven fabrics – so once more, we begin from zero, with the experience of natural fiber and have a totally new area of expertise. I am also attracted by the fact there are new fibers and how they will react to the dying. Also the dying is changing as a result of we are working at a decrease temperature, new nano-materials – each in fabrics and in dye.
Yes, now we have began researching. It’s superb as a result of we dwell in an fascinating technological space. We have a couple of very small companies which are very flexible so we’re beginning to work with them to see how we will match this method into the garment.
A colleague of mine wrote a chunk on future style technologies like self-healing fabric. Have you heard of this?
Sure. I call these intelligent fibers or fabrics. They have an extended history. I’ve by no means seen them utilized but think they are going to be obtainable quickly. Anyway, we already talk about straightforward-care, anti-stain, that sort of thing. Can you imagine I noticed the primary anti-stain fabric in the early 0s? So it is there however expertise is always evolving. We have already got self-pressing garments and this wash-and-put on stuff. In the event you learn about these things you’ll be able to transfer with the improvements.
Sure, of course.
I’m educating advertising and marketing – style marketing – and the course focuses on finding out prototypes of garments. I take advantage of Stone Island for example but attempt to not influence the students a lot. Since 80% or so are womenswear, we even have wedding ceremony products.
I’ve quite a lot of respect for Paul Smith. And then in fact I totally respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese as a result of they’ve a extremely unbelievable approach to their job – they really do their artwork in a novel method. They don’t must be business – they grow to be business and can make their dream a actuality.
Sure. I remember a couple of years ago there was a student who was learning a garment for a chef – the idea was do a jacket that doesn’t smell. She found a filter in Japan that retains the odor. But then you take the jacket and shake it out and the smell goes away. But after all, it’s a big Japanese company and so they don’t care about a student from Polytechnic. So I said that Stone Island may have an interest and I was very fascinated. In order a sort of filter, I discovered a brand new materials, she makes a implausible garment and i get a new experience. You know, working with young folks, even within the college – it retains you young.
They approached us. To start with I was not sure if we may work collectively but then I flew to New York and met the team. You already know, by no means put two guys with blue eyes in the same room. (laughs) They will kill each other or they’ll work very well collectively. Happily, we were the latter. James was glad, I was happy. I discovered too much. At first it was not simple to understand one another but now we’re working very well and I’m very glad with the end result. I feel each entities had been flexible to respect the DNA of every brand and to make one thing that was very good.
I discovered to be very exact. I realized not to stop until you acquire the perfect result. I discovered learn how to launch a product on the web and perceive the expectations of people engaged on paper, and understand the best way we do the garment will not be so exact, so we have to slightly change how we do the garment in order to realize the perfection Supreme had been anticipating.
I completely respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese because they’ve a very improbable method to their job – they actually do their artwork in a unique way.
Early you had been talking about approaching clothes design in an industrial manner. Are there some other products that you’d prefer to explore?
There are plenty different technical brands now who are doing this “direct to consumer mannequin. Do you regulate these sorts of brands?
I all the time look to all the manufacturers which can be round. I think you’ll be able to all the time study from everybody – from energetic sport to skiing and surfing. I think it started many years in the past. I additionally look at the military. Once i journey the world, I try to see all of the various kinds of jackets that exist. Now the costumer can choose what they want and use it throughout the board. So a technical jacket can go into a theatre and a bike jacket can go on top of a mountain. It’s about how the consumer wants to make use of it.
I feel it’s extra of a development. It’s one thing that people will continue to do, and in someway, we are serving to this development because we are doing garments which can be performing more and are extra multipurpose.
Take a look at our go to to the brand’s archive right here and see our recent Road Style with Mr. Rivetti right here.
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