Stone Island’s Heat Reactive Jacket
Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and fashion designer most famous because the founding father of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Company. Osti’s products were a mixture of his own improvements and design concepts he received from studying military clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product improvements 5.1 Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.4 Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.8 Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He became a graphic designer and worked within the promoting enterprise. His career in the fashion industry began within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt assortment featuring placed prints. He was the primary to make use of new strategies just like the four-colour course of and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the offer to design a complete Males’s assortment and grew to become an equity accomplice in the corporate he would title ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Company’).
Throughout this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a creative philosophy fully primarily based on experimentation. The primary innovation he could be liable for in the clothes business was garment dyeing, a course of that completely revolutionized the sphere. It was based upon the concept of various supplies in completed garments reacting in another way to the identical dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates interesting tone-on-tone results. This specific dyeing technique grew to become typical for Osti’s C.P. Firm. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new brand alongside the prevailing CP Company and CP Firm Baby collections.
Ongoing analysis on ending strategies and materials led to one more clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The first collection was made solely from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by means of stone washing. This new assortment was so successful that it bought out at each location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his workforce devoted themselves to product growth and communication methods for the company. In 1985, he grew to become the editor of CP Journal, an additional-large format catalog/magazine that was bought at newspaper stands. It featured photographs of every garment within the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. lifestyle perfectly. A circulation of forty,000 copies per assortment proved that this unusual advertising instrument was certainly efficient. It started a development that may later be adopted by many other corporations within the business.
1987 was an vital 12 months in Osti’s career. He invented and introduced Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and stone island beige jumper wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a totally new feel and appear to the garments. In the identical 12 months Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the primary time. At the moment all mills use this process for processing woolen textiles, the identical course of Osti invented in 1987.
The 12 months also noticed the start of the shade altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological research to create this new fabric which modified shade by temperature variations. That very same year, his fixed dedication to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invitation to characterize the Italian clothes trade at an occasion commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own 15th 12 months within the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held inside the Reichstag constructing in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a new means of communication with the general public via the CP Company sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The corporate additionally showed its support of the Rainforest Basis, the inspiration spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose objective was to lift worldwide awareness of deforestation within the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP retailer in New York’s historic Flatiron Building, plus the launch of one more iconic garment inside the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an revolutionary material, which was the fruit of technological research performed in Japan. The fabric mixed waterproof fabric with a really skinny layer of glass microspheres, which reflected even the weakest light sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new brand was characterized by one other unique materials, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, may very well be used with raw edge stitching. The next yr, Osti based Massimo Osti Production, a company that might reap the advantages of the expertise and successes accrued from 20 years’ value of formal and technical innovations. In 1995, the ST 95 line was launched and in 1996, Osti started a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a group of picture-defining garments.
Simply two years later in 1998, a new company was based to supply and distribute the OM Venture brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothes would even be characterized by the use of innovative fabrics:
– Electric-j – a highly resistant material fabricated from polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton part whereas its other element
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Mag Defender – a canvas made from polyester and carbon fibers whose highly resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “urban armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it highly resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti started the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a new line of technical pants called Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used in this collection, a special mix of Kevlar stood out in particular; its increased softness and functionality made it applicable to its application in garment production.
Amongst Osti’s last projects was the stubs ICD line. Created in 2000 due to a collaboration with Levi’s, it offered an unlimited array of excessive performance technical outerwear. This collection was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, because of an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came geared up with a mobile phone, mp3 player, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first business instance of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on at the moment by means of Ed Lehan. Additionally the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which includes 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment ending companies from all over the world.
4-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-based mostly firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, something he had by no means executed before. On the age of 25, Osti was in shut contact with the social and inventive movements of the time and profoundly aware of the modifications happening in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of style, Osti’s background in advertising led him to use his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed consequence, methods like silkscreen, placed prints, 4-process printing, photocopy, and so forth. It was the first time anything like that was executed in Italy. I keep in mind that I had to silkscreen the primary T-shirts myself earlier than convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I discovered that two different materials absorbed and reacted otherwise to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ effects.” That is the basis of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized the complete industry on the time, both because of the unusual look it produced and due to the significant decrease in costs it represented.
Fundamental characteristics: each garment is dyed, as an alternative of the materials they have been fabricated from. Interesting ‘tone-on-tone’ effects, and simplification of dyeing process.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this special course of, which was originally used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the process by research and tailored it specifically to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the trade.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, turned extremely popular in the textile industry. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, permitting them to drape and fall otherwise. The special rubber coating not only enhanced their pure characteristics, but also grants increased performance, akin to resistance to water and allows them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Predominant characteristics: basic materials seemed renewed and responded in a new solution to put on; also they became more weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket fabricated from a revolutionary materials that changes color with temperature variations because of its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” can be highly waterproof and windproof.
Major traits: jacket modifications coloration by temperature variation. *e.g.pink to gray)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first offered within the LEFT HAND collection and is made from pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a conventional method, initially used to make paper. This process grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and wonderful breath means.
Principal characteristics: pure deerskin look, however warmer really feel.
This materials was additionally used within the LEFT HAND collection. Its important traits are complete resistance to water and put on and as much as 80% protection from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time within the F/W 1996 collection by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this mixture of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-ninety three)